Wipe the squeezed out glue off with a damp cloth. You can then use a wood screw long enough to clamp both together under the toe plate. Then insert thread in the crack and move it back and forth, and up and down to spread the glue. I called them this morning and explained that I did not receive my rifle back and that it was a new one, She explained to me that it was easier to replace the rifle than to repair the old one. You can wedge the two pieces slightly apart and shoot the glue in. I have a T/C Hawken here that has the clean-out screw. That way I can use a small, thin screwdriver or thin, pointed punch to remove the wedge without damage to the stock or the escutcheon. Flintlock Hawken GUN !!!!!!!! for the shipping cost”¦. You can touch the tip to the screw and apply direct heat to it then a couple of drops of Kroil as it's cooling down. Depending on type of wedge, years ago I started filing a small slot lengthwise or drilling a swallow dimple in the end of the wedge. Well, let me tell you, not only did it cost only the shipping cost for this stock problem, I said OK, Heck a new stock for shipping cost, I can’t lose”¦. Was told it would only cost me the shipping to them and no other charges. Was told they don’t do that and I would have to send back the gun and they would replace it at no charge, due to their warranty policy. So I called T/C and explained that I would need a new stock and if I can buy one and please ship it so I can install it myself. The T/C Wedge Pin Puller doubles as a Nipple Wrench that fits all Thompson Center Nipples that take 11 caps, except for the T/C. The Wedge Pin Puller is used to tap out the forend wedge of the stock, so it can be caught and pulled free with the claw end. If you have any questions on this, call the Thompson/Center. The Thompson Center Barrel Wedge Pin Puller is a hardened steel, dual-purpose tool. to drill the hole, and a 8-32 thread tap. If you buy the lowest cost Maple half stock the present cost of the PR stock amounts to about 125 which is pretty cheap IMO. After receiving it, I found a small crack in the stock and did not want to take a chance getting hurt shooting it. with the rear tang screw (and aligned side to side on the tang), mark the front screw location with a prick punch - use a 29 drill. The PR stock has a drop of 3 inches which results in the sights almost automatically lining up with your eye when you bring the gun up to shoot. I’ve been looking for one a long time and found this at a good price. In August I found and bought a T/C Hawken’s in. Plus i can cut it to my size and add a recoil pad. I was going to rework the renegade stock but this will be better to do what i want to do IMO. I own 3 T/C’s Traditional Muzzleloaders already, but did not have one in a. excellent, found a 1' tc hawken stock blank on TOW in fancy maple. inlet the wedge plates -added a lock plate screw escuchion -added an entry pipe -added a poured nose cap -solderd the rib in place -replaced the thimbles and let them into the rib properly -added an oval inlay, with federal eagle, in the cheekpiece -added a little simple engraving to the patchbox When finished they look better to me. Here is a posting I put up on another site about a year ago::::: They gave me a brand new one stating it was easier than to have their gunsmiths replace it. For those rifles with two wedges, I'll file a notch on the forward top edge of the head for the front wedge and a notch on the rear top edge of the head for the rear wedge.I was told to ship the whole rifle due to the stocks are hand fitted. I also add a small notch on the top edge of the head to ID up or down when re-inserting. Hawken Wedge Plate Screw 1.00 1.00 Hawken Nose Cap 10.00 10.00 Hawken Nose Cap Screw. That way I can use a small, thin screwdriver or thin, pointed punch to remove the wedge without damage to the stock or the escutcheon. Hawken Finished Stock 100.00 100.00 Sold out Hawken Barrel - P311. Depending on type of wedge, years ago I started filing a small slot lengthwise or drilling a swallow dimple in the end of the wedge. Available in solid brass or black oxide steel. I try to adjust mine not too loose and not too tight but just right :) Judicious (light tap or two) with a ball peen hammer on wood block to bend the wedge is all that is needed to fine tune the fit. Formed from solid bar stock 1 1/2 long by 3/8 wide, slightly tapered. Whether all that proves out in real life- I don't know. Thanks.Īs others have posted, the "common or standard" way is insert on the left so the head is on the left side and is more exposed to rubbing/bumping thus theoretically better for right hand carry. I am glad to know that so I learned something new to me on this thread. I will check just how mine goes and all things being equal I would like them to go from left to right since that is apparently the "standard" way. In my rifles I can sometimes push the wedge out with my thumb which is too loose. In my case the wedge seems to hold the barrel more securely one way or the other and I go that way. This is a Thompson Center Hawken Complete Stock channeled 15/16. I agree that whatever is best for you AND your particular rifle.
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